West Highland Way – Day 5: Bridge of Orchy to Kings House

13th May 2022

It was still raining heavily when I awoke at 7am on day 5 and I knew right away that today was going to be a rough ride. The sound of the rain, together with the thunderous rush of the fast flowing River Orchy only yards away penetrated the air. I snuggled deeper into the depth of my sleeping bag and covered my head, wishing for another couple of hours sleep and praying it would all be gone when I woke up.

Sleep hadn’t been an issue last night. The previous day had seen me hike almost 20 miles from Beinglas Camp Site to Bridge of Orchy, the longest day on the trail and my longest backpacking hike so far. To say it was challenging was an understatement! My feet had also felt the strain and were still painful this morning. I had attained 3 blisters which I knew would need extra care before attempting the next stage of this adventure and both my soles were extremely tender. A nice slow hike today was definitely in order. After snuggling down and the warmth consuming me, I had been asleep in no time and slept right through until now.

Overall, it had been a pleasant camp here despite not being able to enjoy the outside much due to the weather. The wet conditions certainly made camping here difficult but I had been so lucky bagging the last decent camping pitch. Many others had chosen to end their night in the warm comfort of the Bridge of Orchy Hotel where the bar catered for hikers, yet last night I had been much too exhausted. I remember thinking to myself just before I’d crashed out that I couldn’t have managed another step even if I’d wanted to.

Today however was a brand new day and after pulling myself from the tent and stretching my legs in the early morning rain, that familiar feeling of excitement ran through my blood once more. What exactly would day 5 offer? Only time would tell.

The scenes of Bridge of Orchy first thing in the morning on day 5. It was full pelt rain and rushing rivers but there was something exhilarating about such a moment. It definitely makes you feel alive and awakens your senses. Bridge of Orchy, Argyle, Scotland.

Overview: Day 5 walk route

The route today was going to be a shorter hike of approximately 11 miles stretching from the Bridge of Orchy to the Kings House Hotel in Glen Coe. Despite being less miles, I had heard that this stretch was not necessarily easier as it involved a long stretch on the Drove Road across Rannoch Moor.

Upon leaving the camp spot at Bridge of Orchy, the route would take me up over Mam Carraigh and past the Inveroran Hotel towards Victoria Bridge. From there, I would join the Drove Road to Glen Coe and begin the crossing of Rannoch Moor and the Black Mount. I was looking forward to this section in particular as it had spectacular scenes of the rolling hills and mountains and passed by interesting locations such as Stob a Choire Odhair, Beinn Toaig and Ba Bridge.

The final leg of today would see me visit a special landmark of the West Highland Way (Connor’s Rock), which I will discuss further in this post. As well as the rock, this location is special for another reason. It is the iconic scene which features in the James Bond movie Skyfall and it was this I was most looking forward to. I planned to stop briefly at the rock before heading onwards past the Glen Coe Ski Centre and over the A82 towards Kings House. I wouldn’t be staying in the hotel but planned to wild camp somewhere around that location.

The weather today did not look promising but I intended to make the absolute most of it. What did I have to lose? It was either get going now or not ever! Onwards it was.


Leave No Trace

Leave No Trace. Bridge of Orchy Wild Camping Spot. Bridge of Orchy, Argyle, Scotland.

As is the usual, I packed up in the pouring rain as quickly as I could and left the site as I’d found it the previous evening before continuing onwards along the West Highland Way.


Bridge of Orchy to Inveroran

Setting out along the West Highland Way, I crossed the road just past the bridge and passed the portaloos. There are 2 paths here which at first can be very misleading. The first one heads in the right direction but turns downwards steeply into the forest. This is not the West Highland Way as I soon discovered and after much needed consideration, I finally located the trail and took the second footpath.

The rain grew heavier during the sharp climb up towards Mam Carraigh. This is a very rocky footpath which gets steeper shortly upon emerging from the dense section of pine forest in the bottom. The path winds its way up the mountain before reaching the summit which gives stunning views over Loch Tulla and across to the distant Rannoch Moor and Black Mount Monadh Dubh.

Loch Tulla, Argyle, Scotland.

Despite the weather being bleak here, I was lucky to blessed with the following scenes.

Once over the summit, it is a slow descent toward the road at Inveroran and the Inveroran Hotel.

Inveroran, Scotland.

Inveroran to Rannoch Moor

Inveroran Hotel, Scotland.

Arriving at the Inveroran Hotel it was hard to not pay it a visit but given how early it was in the day I had little option. I had heard great things about it prior to my trip and had considered camping at a popular wild camping spot a little further along the track. The pub would’ve been the perfect place to wind down in the evening. However my long and uncomfortable trek from Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy, together with my late arrival in the pouring rain had put paid to any further hiking yesterday. I was absolutely done in and couldn’t have walked another step. I was so lucky to grab the last suitable pitch at the wild camping spot and I remember thinking about this right now as I passed the hotel.

The Inveroran Hotel from the reviews I have since read is a very well thought of establishment. It is hiker friendly and serves food and alcohol beverages as well as recently including a small shop with basic hiking and outdoor supplies. It is a popular stop off on the West Highland Way with many taking a short break to eat lunch and snuggle into the warm confines of the pub to escape the harsh, cold weather. If it had been later in the day, I would’ve checked this out however it was only 9am and the pub was closed. Always another excuse to return though.

Eventually reaching the quaint stone bridge crossing the Allt Tolaghan, I finally saw for myself the fabulous wild camping spot that many speak fondly about. Briefly leaving the trail at this point, I ventured over the spot on the right side of the bridge. I have to admit, it is a very beautiful spot with excellent ground for pitching. If I could’ve managed the extra 2 mile yesterday, knowing now what was here, I most definitely would’ve pushed on. Unfortunately, I was too worn out to attempt it. It is definitely something to work towards though as this spot here at Inveroran is in my opinion much better than that at Bridge of Orchy.

Inveroran wild camping spot which can be seen over the left side of the stone bridge as it is crossed. This spot is smaller than the right side and is slightly more out of the way of the track. Inveroran, Scotland.

Following on from the camping spot along the road, I passed by a parking area and then Victoria Bridge. By now it was starting to rain yet again and gazing over the edge of the bridge I noticed mists sweeping over in the far distance. This I’d worried about slightly as I’d hoped that the weather might be kind enough to give me good viewing over Rannoch Moor but like all the days so far on this trail, weather here in the highlands is hit and miss.

It never failed to amaze me though as I trundled on through the wet and cold just what sights can lift a spirit no matter what the weather, for there in front of me without warning was a deer stood boldly at the side of the trail. It was my first sight of deer on this hike and I was amazed by it, completely captivated by its reluctance to be scared away by passing vehicles or other hikers of the way. It was such a simple thing yet surreal too as it was the last thing I expected on such a dull day. Feeling newly revitalised, I forgot about my blistered feet for a while and enjoyed the moment before heading onwards.

Wild deer on open land at Victoria Bridge, Inveroran, Scotland.

Just a short distance along the trail from the deer I finally saw the sign for Lord Telford’s Parlimentary Roads and the famous gateway for the drove road to Glen Coe. In 1803, Lord Telford was commissioned to create new roads across the highlands to accommodate the increase in vehicles and trade for market. By the end of the 18th century, many roads were deemed unsuitable for use due to wear and tear and their location higher up the relentless and often brutal mountains. Crossing the vast open space especially Rannoch Moor was a dangerous task and an easier alternative was sought. He designed gravel roads across the rocky landscape which ran lower through the hills and were aimed to make an easier crossing. The roads were laid with gravel as opposed to cobblestones in an attempt to protect cattle’s feet as they were drove across the moor for market. He also designed and built stone bridges across the burns which were bigger and more suitable for crossing at lower level. Although the road is no longer used for commercial use and was finally closed off in 1933, it is still in relatively good condition and is frequently used as a hiking route and for the West Highland Way.

This was quite a milestone especially for me as this meant I was finally entering the start of the pinnacle of the West Highland Way, the long awaited crossing of Rannoch Moor with its vast openness stretching on for miles with nothing but mountains, lochans and the best scenery the way has to offer. I had thought about this moment a lot over the past days and the ever growing excitement had become almost an obsession. I remember praying with every fibre of my being that the skies would clear just briefly enough to give me a snap of scenery as I crossed.

I have to say at this point however that although the drove road is still used as part of the way, it is not as easy on the feet these days as what Lord Telford envisioned. The gravel has long worn away in many places, exposing the rocky base of the road and due to its length and how long you are walking on it, this has been known to cause horrific blisters on the toughest hiking feet. I found this next section particularly difficult.

The drove road as it stretches uphill alongside forestry towards Rannoch Moor. Scotland.

After heading up the rough track, the incline abruptly levels out to become a long and undulating route across the vast open moors. Despite the thick mists obscuring most of the views, I knew in an instant that I had reached openness. There was something about the air and atmosphere around me. Gone was the damp, cool but calm element that I had experienced so far this morning as I had gradually headed from lower in the hills. My transition to Rannoch Moor was like an icy blast to my soul. Within seconds of leaving the safe sanctuary of the sheltered forest which had kept the winds towards Loch Tulla at bay, I was suddenly plunged into the very thick of it. The mist (or fog as I could now call it), was so cold I could feel my fingers tingling within minutes of entering and the wind blew unforgivingly downward into my face as I headed on. Gazing around at the wide space surrounding me, it was a splendid sight all the same.

Rannoch Moor is described as being a remote, boggy and vast open landscape spanning approximately 50 miles. It is home to various landmarks, wildlife, mountains and lochans and the West Highland Way utilises a small section of it to cross towards King’s house located on the edge of Glen Coe. On a clear day, the scenic views are valued as being some of the best in Europe with many hikers claiming it to be one of the favourite sections of the trail, however Rannoch Moor is renowned for its rugged, harsh terrain and cruel weather conditions where temperatures can plummet quickly and the landscape can become submerged in thick mist without warning.

Despite being a very beautiful part of the world it can also be very dangerous. This section across the moor is long and remote. At the time I visited, it was the height of the hiking season and so I wasn’t alone on the trail here, having been passed several times by others but once in front they quickly became obscured from view giving the appearance of being alone. Yet the sound of boots and poles hitting rock was the only giveaway that they were there, the sound travelling far through the mist. It made me think about the hikers who brave this trail in harsh winter conditions and of the care and extra precautions they must take to survive the extreme cold. That in itself must be a great challenge.


Rannoch Moor to Connor’s Rock

It was an interesting section Rannoch Moor. Despite the viewing at first being severely impacted, every now and then there would be a break in the fog and for a brief, fleeting moment, I could see what lay ahead and all around. As the day wore on, it appeared that the weather was as fickle as it was temperamental. It just couldn’t make up its mind whether it wanted to clear or throw it down. By now I had given up hoping and snatched opportunities to take photographs whenever the opportunity arose.

As I headed onwards, I caught glimpses of the huge mountains on my left. Tall, dark and foreboding where the mist appeared to be thickest as it swirled around the summits. I figured from my map that these mountains must be the Stob a Choire Odhair, Beinn Toaig and Coire Creagach. I knew I was now in that location and it would’ve been grand to see them on a better day, however right now, the sight before me looked eerie and there was a strange echo in the air which made me feel as if the mountains were moving and alive.

Rannoch Moor, Scotland.

The track led on through the vast open land as I passed copses of forestry on both sides of the trail. They were only tiny really but it made me think about what actually was here before it was deforested. The trail drops into a dip at this point as it heads into the Black Mount and through an area appropriately named The Moss. Here I passed another tall mountain, the Meall Beag and a lochan called Mhic Pheadair Ruaidh. It’s waters looked still but not inviting. The fog might’ve been clearing but it was now raining once more, the wind blowing sideways as I dodged the gusts pounding into me.

Eventually I reached Ba Bridge where I removed my heavy rucksack from my shoulders and sat awhile in the pouring rain but out of the winds. It was really a calming moment as I stared downstream at the rushing waters travelling towards the rolling hills of Rannoch. I couldn’t help but marvel at the colours here as I sat shaded to a degree by the tiny copse of trees and thought I caught a hint of what I would’ve classed as autumnal back home in the Peak District. Rich browns, auburn and almost mahogany was the foliage which grew on these moors mixed in with the green grasses and plant life. It certainly felt autumnal despite being spring.

Once back out into the driving rain, I continued forward past the turn off on the left for the ruins of Ba Cottage. I had considered paying a short visit to check out the ground here for future, potential wild camping opportunities. However, my feet by this stage were really paying for it now and it was excruciating walking on the sharp, stones of the drove road. My main aim was to arrive at King’s house and chill, hoping my feet might recover by morning. I remember feeling extremely grateful that I hadn’t a long journey today in comparison to previous days on the trail.

It was a mix of emotions as I ventured on. In one moment I felt deflated, cheated that the very section of trail I had looked forward to the most was being thwarted by mist and sideways rain. It was freezing too by now and my face tingled worse than ever. Yet in the next I’d remind myself of what a privilege it was to be able to walk this amazing path and even with the scenery not as clear as I had hoped, every now and then I’d catch the far off lochans of Gaineamhach, Mathair Eite and Dubh Lochan on my right. It really was a sight to behold and was so secluded it took nothingness to another level.

Even in the midst of the worst weather, I couldn’t help be dawdle and soak it all in. I was being passed by other hikers, all hurrying fast along the trail with their heads down pushing on to their finish line. Some I knew, others I didn’t but it hardly made a difference in that moment as no one stopped for a moment to acknowledge anyone. The wind and rain was too bad.

There was however another reason I took my time that day. One I’d not shared with anyone I’d met so far on the trail. In truth I was hoping to visit what has become a special milestone on the West Highland Way and one which had touched my heart ever since learning of it when first starting the planning of my own adventure the year before. It was a game changer for me and made me grateful that I still was lucky enough to be here to experience all this.


Connor’s Rock to Kingshouse

Connor’s Rock with the beautiful backdrop of Buachaille Etive Mor, Glen Coe, Scottish Highlands.

So the rock in the photograph above is Connor’s Rock. I didn’t know Connor personally but I had been told the story of him by a good friend and hero of the West Highland Way. The story behind Connor’s Rock is as follows and is a sad one but after hearing it, I felt compelled to pay my respects. I couldn’t just walk by without any acknowledgment.

Connor was a dear friend of my fellow hiking friend and was a close friend to his son. They had grown up together and both families became very close. Connor had planned to join my friend on his 2019 West Highland Way adventure and had looked forward to enjoying all the amazing sights and the iconic scene from the Bond movie Skyfall. Unfortunately, Connor never got to experience the trail as just a few days before Christmas in December 2018, he was tragically killed in a car accident at only 21 years of age. When Connor passed away it was a terrible time and my friend considered calling off his expedition as Connor would nolonger be with him… but as the months passed a thought suddenly occurred to him. Maybe Connor could go with him after all.

It was arranged that my friend (with the full approval of Connor’s family), would carry a portion of his ashes along the trail and scatter them in a special place. My friend chose this rock which is located up the hill from the trail and overlooks the magnificent Buachaille Etive Mor in Glen Coe as well as King’s house and has the best scenic panoramic views of the way. With this in mind, Connor whose ashes were scattered here in May 2019, will always be amongst the scene from Skyfall that he had so hoped to see.

I still remember how I felt when I first found the rock. It was a surreal yet spiritual moment and I spent quite a while comparing markings from a photograph I had been sent to the actual rock just to make doubly sure that it was the correct one. Nowadays, there is a small plaque fastened to it with Connor’s name so it is much easier to find but in May 2022 there wasn’t. Despite it being extremely cold and throwing it down with rain, it truly was a beautiful place. I felt at peace here as I sat gazing towards Glen Coe and back up the trail in the direction I had just walked.

After a few brief moments of reflection, I reached into my rucksack and took out a can of Kopperberg that I had carried since Brodies Store in Tyndrum. I raised my can to Connor and the wind as I sat and enjoyed it with the rain pelting down all around. As I sat, I thought all about Connor and the gift of life in general. How suddenly we can leave this earth as quickly as we enter it without any given reason or warning and I realised just how lucky I was right now to be sat in the rain drinking Kopperberg and walking the West Highland Way. I was doing it because I could! It no longer mattered that my feet were blistered and sore. It no longer mattered that the weather wasn’t great and that it was freezing cold. In that moment I felt more alive than I had in years!

As I drank I happened to glance down at the trail stretching away into the distance and just below me stood a couple who waved as they walked past. It suddenly occurred to me just what I must’ve looked like! Yet instead of feeling embarrassed or shying away, I embraced it. Grateful I could sit in the rain and experience what I was. It was so true as the saying goes, tomorrow is never promised.

Eventually though, after about 30 minutes, it really was time to go. As I got up to leave I had a strange feeling that Connor was laughing at me all soaking wet after standing there drinking Kopperberg for half an hour. I found myself laughing too. I bet if Connor was able to he’d tell me that I was bonkers.

Half sliding, half stumbling down to the trail once again, I continued downhill towards the Glen Coe Ski Resort which was along a narrow trail on my left. I had considered calling in for refreshments but decided against it with the weather being so bad. By now the afternoon was getting on and I was eager to get pitched and have something to eat. As warm as my core body had been on the trail, it soon felt the cold the moment I had stopped at Connors Rock. I was looking forward to unwinding sat with a pint in the King’s house later.

Dropping down low into the valley, I was struck by how windy it was as I followed the trail towards the busy A82. I had to use my walking poles as stabilisers to keep me upright as the gusts were so strong. Ahead of me, I saw crowds of people standing at the roadside next to some Scottish flags which flapped vividly in the wind, some were people who had passed me earlier on the trail and I recognised them from a distance by the bright colours of their rucksacks and overcoats. Then as if by magic, a bus suddenly stopped on the road where they were and they all climbed on. Within no time they were heading back to Glasgow.

Blackrock Cottage, Glen Coe, Scotland.

Edging my way closer towards Kingshouse I passed by Blackrock Cottage, an iconic dwelling in Glen Coe which is possibly one of the most photographed of the way. It looked beautiful and cosy with its white walls and tiny windows if not a little isolated. I could only see this and the hotel and ski centre for miles. Beyond the cottage and just a short walk across the road was the King’s house, my destination for the day.


King’s House Glen Coe

The King’s House, Glen Coe, Scotland.

The Kings House Hotel is a remote inn located in the eastern side of Glen Coe. It is approximately 2 kilometres in distance from the popular Glen Etive and faces Buachaille Etive Mor on the edge of Rannoch Moor. It derived its name Kings House as it was used as a barracks by the troops of the Duke of Cumberland during the subjugation of the Highlands by the British Army following the Jacobite Rising of 1745.

It has a comfortable number of hotel rooms for a more luxurious stay and a bunk house which tends to cater more as a hostel for walkers and hikers of the West Highland Way. As well as this, the establishment offers laundry and drying facilities, a restaurant and public house. Due to wild camping regulations being more relaxed in Scotland, hikers of the way are permitted to camp within the vicinity of Kings House, in the woodland and on the open moorland surrounding the hotel. Hikers and wild campers are also permitted to use facilities such as clean water supply, washing and drying facilities and showers.

PLEASE NOTE: Although wild camping is permitted, people must camp on the opposite side of the river to the hotel buildings.

I cannot describe the feeling of relief upon reaching my destination on this day. Despite not being a long walk, it certainly hadn’t been the easiest in the persistent wild rain storms. Crossing Rannoch Moor had been extremely challenging due to weather conditions and the long undulating drove road from Victoria Bridge. My feet definitely felt it as I sat and took a well earned rest under some silver birch trees at the edge of the trail.

Considering my next move, the main priority was to find somewhere suitable to camp. The rain was still pounding down all around and the wind certainly had no let up. I considered pitching by the fast flowing river where I spotted 3 other tents already but looking at the condition of them I had second thoughts. They were getting totally buffed by the large gusts and didn’t look very sturdy. Then out of the corner of my eye, I spotted Alex, the soldier I had met in Doune Byre Bothy on day 3. After chatting with another fellow hiker, he began heading towards a patch of forest trees a short distance from the hotel. Shouldering my heavy pack once more, I headed over there.

Stepping into the dense section of pine forest, I spotted Alex setting up his bivvy and tarp in a sheltered spot more or less in the beginning of the trees. I chose to head deeper in and hopefully find some shelter from the relentless rainfall. It wasn’t long before I found exactly what I was looking for.

Wild deer outside the King’s House, Glen Coe, Scotland.

Camping spot

Hidden within a small patch of forest at King’s House, Glen Coe, Scotland.

The patch of forestry that I called home for the night is located a short distance from the front of the hotel and runs alongside the river which on a clear day, has perfect views of Buachaille Etive Mor. At first, finding a suitable pitch was difficult due to the amount of fallen trees and dead wood piles which appeared to be everywhere. I headed right to the very back of the copse and found an area where the ground was level and I was well sheltered. There was no grass underfoot but due to how thick and dense the pines grew, the ground was barely wet. I could clearly see that this spot must prove popular as there was a firepit still in place from previous campers. It wasn’t hard to imagine why, Rannoch Moor and these parts get absolutely buffered by high winds and rain and here provided a well needed shelter. It wasn’t long before I was pitched up comfortably with a coffee and Base Camp meal on the go.

Following this, I decided to head for a quick shower before heading across to the Kings House Hotel for a quick pint.

I have to say I was impressed with the service at Kings House. Before settling down with a pint, I had taken my sodden laundry across to the reception to enquire about using their drying facilities. I had been more than happy to pay for the service as I had not one item of dry clothing left. Everything today had ended up soaking. The kind gentleman on reception straight away took my wet clothing and dried it free of charge. I found it all folded neatly by the side of the desk later that evening. It was a super kind gesture which I was immensely grateful for. The thought of putting on wet clothing tomorrow after the cold of today had really been worrying me.

It was a fabulous end to an eventful day of rain walking to finally unwind with a pint of cider or two in the Kings House. I was joined by Alex and the two girls I had met at the Beech Tree Inn and later, Beinglas Campsite. A couple of other West Highland Way campers also joined us later still. It was great to sit and chat about all our experiences whilst we had been on the trail and look at the sleeping arrangements of some in their photographs. Put it this way, if I had ever thought my tent was unhomely at any stage this trip, it was a godsend to some of the places others had camped. Some had bedded down in disused buildings or ruins with no roof and rubble covering the floors. With how much rain there had been, I can only imagine just what those experiences had been like!

Reunited for our last time on the trail. King’s House, Glen Coe, Scotland.

It was a strange feeling once again as I headed slowly by torchlight across the grounds of the Kings House Hotel, stumbled into the darkness of the forest copse and half fell into my humble tent. What a day it had been! It was only a short hike but I was completely done in and in that moment in time, I couldn’t really remember all the fine details of crossing Rannoch Moor. The wind and rain had put paid to any socialising along the route and hurrying along with our heads down, the day had passed in a blur of mixed emotions.

Early on I had been disappointed at the lack of far off views in the Black Mount, almost cursing that my favourite day had been spoiled, yet despite this, I realised that there was so much more to this adventure than what meets the eye. If everything had been as picturesque as I had witnessed in other people’s photographs and videos then there would’ve been no anticipation or surprise. The mountains offered something new which I hadn’t been expecting and really, that was what I’d craved all along. Seeing Buachaille Etive Mor from Connor’s Rock was very different. It didn’t look as tall, as the mists high up had given it the appearance of having its top cut off. The scene wasn’t as clear as I’d hoped yet there was a moodiness which gave it a sense of authenticity which I liked. As daunting as it had been, I knew this wouldn’t be my last time to Glen Coe.

Snuggling down in my sleeping bag once again, a slight dampness now taking hold, I turned away from the cold drifting in from Rannoch Moor. A white mist had formed at the foot of the mountains and I knew it was going to be a freezing night. However one thought lifted my spirits and that was knowing that tomorrow I would be braving the Devil’s Staircase as I climbed out of Glen Coe. How I’d been looking forward to that! Closing my fatigued eyes against the blackness, I listened tentatively and a realisation suddenly hit. The rain had finally stopped but by God how that wind howled.


Hike Summary

Distance walked: 12.71 miles

Distance and route as tracked using Strava GPS.

Elevation gain: 1,593 feet

Total elevation as tracked using Strava GPS.

Special thanks go to the great people I met during the course of this walk on day 5 of my adventure. The day was not easy for any of us and I distinctly remember meeting up with everyone who had completed this section later on in the Kings House pub where we all sat together and discussed the hardships of this day over a well earned pint!

Special mentions go to the following:

Alex Dean, the soldier I once again had the pleasure to camp near at Kings House and enjoyed a hearty chat and pint with. Your face and astonishment at there being only one functioning shower was priceless and although you didn’t know it, I was silently howling as I got a shower that day listening to you chuntering away over the £1 it cost to use. Never stop being you. Thankyou for sharing your camping expertise and hope to catch you again on a trail some time.

Ruby Cleal and Anjali Punn, the two young girls I met on day 1 of the trail at the Beech Tree Inn and who I kept having the pleasure to meet most days. Unfortunately today was my last meeting with you but Thankyou for sharing your journey with me so far. It is always nice to meet new faces on the trail and develop a rapport which enabled us to share adventure and laughter to spur us through the challenges that awaited us. You finished a day earlier than me and hope the rest of your journey went well.

Andrea Williams and her lovely hiking friend who I was so pleased to see in the pub that night after the treacherous weather conditions today. Despite not seeing you at all whilst crossing Rannoch Moor, it was lovely to catch a moment with both of you in the warm pub and know we were still going strong if not a little roughed up along the way. Thankyou for your ongoing support and encouragement along this section of the trail.

The kind gentleman on reception at the Kings House Hotel. I believe your name was Lawrence but I cannot be certain. Either way, you helped me out massively and possibly saved my life by offering to dry all my wet kit free of charge. I was so cold after my trek over the moors that day that I’m certain I may not have been able to continue the next day if I’d had to put back on my wet hiking clothes. Your act of kindness demonstrates that help is definitely out there and no one should suffer whilst on the West Highland Way. My clothes were all dry and folded neatly for collection after my pint and I am so grateful for that. Thankyou. And if anyone ever requires this kind of assistance, please don’t be shy to ask!

Carl Johnson for your ongoing support and words of wisdom throughout my adventure. Most of all today for your accurate and detailed directions to Connor’s Rock. I especially wish to thank you for sharing your story in regards to Connor and the tragic events of December 2018. I have journeyed through every emotion possible throughout the many times you have spoken about Connor, from his childhood, teenage years and the happy and hilarious memories you shared, to the sadness of his passing. After hiking the whole way I have to say that I couldn’t have picked a better and more beautiful place on the West Highland Way to place him. You chose well and as you said many times, he can gaze over Skyfall for eternity.

Last but never least is my readers who have offered me the best support both during and after my hike. Your kind words always make this seem worthwhile. You are who I write for and what keeps blogging and sharing my adventures alive. It’s always great to hear from likeminded explorers who love the outdoors and long distance trail hiking. May it long continue. Thankyou for everything and sticking with me. It means so much. Take care, happy hiking and I’ll see you in day 6. Xxx


Sources of information to aid this post came from the following:

http://www.westhighlandway.org

http://www.roads.org.uk Telfords Road

Strava GPS and mapping


All photographs used in the creation of this blog post are my own and have been captured using an iPhone 12 camera device. They have been sourced and edited by myself Lucy Bailey from my Instagram account found at SoloExplorer23 using Instagram editor tool to improve clarity and quality of the image. Distance and elevation images as tracked from Strava GPS are my own and were live recorded on the day in question.


5 thoughts on “West Highland Way – Day 5: Bridge of Orchy to Kings House

  1. Hi Lucy,

    Another thoroughly enjoyable account of your West Highland Way! I read your last one (Beinglas to BOO) a few weeks before doing the way myself and left you a comment. I think your positive mental attitude is great. It sounds like the weather was pretty biblical for you that day! I had a wonderful time on the way and was super lucky with the weather. Very hot with just one wet morning. I did Beinglas to Mam Carraigh on my day 4 and camped up there to avoid the midges! What a great day that was! Like you I found the WHW had quite a profound effect on me and I’m planning on doing a section of the Cape Wrath trail next spring. What with work and family I can’t commit to the whole trail in one go but hopefully Fort Bill to Shiel Bridge. Keep up the good work 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi John, I can remember you commenting on my last WHW post and I was only thinking to myself recently about if your hike went well.
      Thankyou once again for your kind words regarding my latest blog. It was a difficult one to talk about really as the scenery was obstructed for most of it. The photos came out much better than what I actually saw and with a bit of mild editing, I managed to make them a little clearer. It wasn’t all gloom though as I did get brief moments during the walk when the skies did clear, it just wasn’t for long unfortunately 😂. I’m pleased you managed to get good weather during your trip!
      I have had a lot going off over the last 6 months if I’m honest hence why I had to shelve blogging for a while. I just couldn’t prioritise it and manage my other affairs adequately, however I feel that things have improved greatly now and I’ve once again got that bit of extra time on my hands once more.
      The Cape Wrath Trail! Wow! Now that’s something! I’ve had my eye on that a while too but I’ve decided to get a few other trails under my belt first. I, like you cannot hike for longer than a week at time due to family commitments and work but I will not let this hinder me. I’ve been gradually picking my way up the Pennine Way since last June, starting first with short sections over a few free weekends I had then this year I did a week long section from Gargrave to Dufton. I hope to complete the last 100 mile section next May. You’ll have to let me know how you get on with your hike in due course. I’ve every faith you will do well with it. Lucy 🙂

      Like

  2. Hi Lucy, once again an excellent account of your journey along the west highland way. A big thank you for your mention of Connor and his rock. Hard to believe it’s almost five years since I scattered his ashes at that beautiful spot. Just to note he was only 21 when he passed not 22. I’m returning along the way for a sixth time in early April and will be visiting the rock and polishing his plaque while I’m there – it had become a little faded the last time I visited a year ago! Hope you’re well. All the best, Carl

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi Carl, it’s so lovely to hear from you! I had been wondering where you had gone. Thankyou for your kind comments and feedback on this blog. Unfortunately, I lost my mojo for a while and so have put on hold any further publishing for the time being. Hopefully it won’t be long until I finish the series.
      I will change the age of Connor in the post and I apologise for this error. Glad you enjoyed it. Keep in touch.
      Lucy

      Liked by 1 person

  3. Sorry to hear you’ve lost your mojo. I can sympathise with that, I’ve been the same with the videos. I will certainly keep in touch. Carl

    Liked by 1 person

Leave a reply to soloadventurer23 Cancel reply